Change fermenting at Freeland winery

There’s a fresh but familiar face behind the former Blooms Winery and 5511 Bistro.

Kyle O’Neill, the head chef of the bistro for the past year, recently took ownership of the Freeland winery and restaurant with his wife, Michelle Graham, on April 1. Owners Ken and Virginia Bloom officially retired this year and were searching for their successors in the vino business, which has a new name: Leo & Leto’s.

O’Neill and Graham had talked about starting their own business for years when the perfect opportunity arose. Leo & Leto’s, like Blooms, is a family name – Leo was Kyle’s nickname growing up, and Leto was a name they had hoped to save for their son. But with three daughters, it never got used.

“Getting up and running, that was the big challenge,” Graham said. “We’ll go through this year just as much as we can and then start working on expanding more.”

Patrons may have noticed some changes within the past couple of months, such as the addition of a brunch menu and cocktails. But for the most part, the couple plan to build on the existing ideas that have made the place successful, like the use of herbs from the garden on the front patio.

“The rhubarb goes in the Ambrosia wine, the horseradish on the steak,” O’Neill said.

He worked at restaurants around Whidbey before becoming head chef a year ago. Though he previously had some experience brewing beer at home, fermenting wine was a first. He found a lot of crossover in making the two alcoholic beverages.

The first wines made by the couple won’t be out until next year, however. For now, they’re focused on bottling the last of the Blooms wine, which is referred to as the legacy collection.

O’Neill plans to bring a Cabernet Sauvignon to the wine list, which is his favorite variety to cook with as a chef. He is also interested in aging white wine, like Chardonnay, with oak.

“We’re hoping that there is some noticeable change there that will kind of lean more towards our palate,” he said.

The couple is even considering branching out to other fermented beverages, such as hard cider and mead. They may also bring back the wine club, which was discontinued by the Blooms.

“We were very happy to step in and fill their shoes,” O’Neill said.

The vast majority of the grapes are grown off-island – 95% of them come from a vineyard near Rattlesnake Ridge. A small amount are produced near Greenbank for the winery’s Whidbey Blend, but the island is a much more difficult environment to grow them.

The highest-selling wine on the list is a Riesling blend called Beach Cabin. With under 2% of residual sugars left over, O’Neill referred to it as “sweet but not too sweet.”

The new menu aims to be “family-friendly, approachable” food, Graham said. Steak, seafood and salads are the main highlights, but there is also a burger that can be ordered. The new brunch menu offers eggs Benedict, biscuits and gravy, a Monte Cristo sandwich and other favorites like French toast. And of course, mimosas.

“We just want to add our twist,” O’Neill said.

The hours of operation are now 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Friday through Sunday for brunch and 4 to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday for dinner.

Along with the later hours, the couple also plan to bring even more music to the venue, which is known for its weekly events. It’s all part of appealing to a younger crowd that also calls Freeland home.

Kyle O’Neill and Michelle Graham are the new owners of Blooms Winery and 5511 Bistro, which is now called Leo & Leto’s. (Photo by David Welton)

Photo by David Welton Kyle O’Neill checks the clarity of a sample of wine.

Kyle O’Neill uses a pipette to transfer wine into a glass for Michelle Graham to taste. (Photo by David Welton)

Michelle Graham samples a glass of wine. She and her husband, Kyle O’Neill, are the owners of Leo & Leto’s, formerly known as Blooms Winery. (Photo by David Welton)