Primroses not so prim

They arrive on the scene just as we’re growing truly weary of overcast skies and muddy gardens filled with soggy, brown leaves. In nurseries and florist shops, box stores and supermarkets, they beckon us with their kindergarten colors and crisp, green foliage. Those candy-apple reds, circus yellows and intense purple-blues give us hope that spring really is on the way.

Few flower-lovers can resist buying at least a couple of inexpensive pots of primroses at this time of year. One of the earliest messengers of spring, primrose’s botanical name, Primula, comes from the Latin word for “first.”

Primroses thrive in cool, moist climates throughout the world, and have been cultivated and appreciated since antiquity. The primrose has been immortalized endlessly in poetry, including that of William Shakespeare. It’s been used as herbal tea, medicinal tinctures, a culinary ingredient, and was even fermented for wine. But primulas are most cherished for the cheer they bring to winter-weary gardens.

The genus Primula is huge, but in this article, we’ll discuss the best-known member of the primrose clan, the polyanthus hybrids. These are the pretty perennials that tempt us at the supermarket door. Except during rare, harsh winters, they’re evergreen in the Pacific Northwest. The oval, yellow-green leaves clump into a rosette shape. Short, fleshy stalks spring from the rosette in clusters (umbels), and bear tubular buds which open into flat-faced flowers. Hybridization has not destroyed the sweet scent they emit, especially on a balmy day.

Primroses are easy to grow, usually setting bloom at least twice a year. They’re prolific, often doubling in size in one season. And they’re as strong as they are beautiful, providing that their basic needs are fulfilled.

Plant them about six inches apart in a partly shaded, moisture-retentive (but not waterlogged) area, in soil enriched with plenty of compost. Well-rotted leaf mold or commercially bagged compost will do, if you don’t have a compost pile of your own. Remember, primulas’ native habitat is cool and moist, so don’t site them where they’ll be subjected to hot afternoon sun. Crowns should be set at soil level. Mulching around each plant helps retain moisture and protects it from frost damage.

As temperatures rise, so does the possibility of slug and snail damage. Those hungry beasts love primroses, especially the blossoms. Sprinkle iron phosphate snail bait, such as Sluggo or Escar-Go in the planting area, or set beer traps.

Primroses will survive indoors as long as they’re given a cool, humid environment. A kitchen or bathroom window might be a good temporary home for primulas. After bloom time, snip off the dead flowers, plant outdoors, and they’ll probably bloom again in the fall. If you prefer to keep them in containers, put them in a shady spot outdoors during the summer and bring them back inside in autumn.

Primroses will clone themselves after only a year or two in the ground. It’s best to divide large clumps every few years to keep them healthy. Do this when plants are actively growing. Division is especially important for container-grown primulas. Give them fresh soil enriched with compost and add time-release fertilizer according to package directions.

Mariana Graham is an Island County-WSU Master Gardener. Contact her at artsnflowers@hotmail.com.